Ridgeback Wines

If you are still on hols after the new year and looking for a fab outing in the Cape, or even have gone back to work and are looking for something to do this weekend to soften the blow – my top recommendation is to pay a visit to Ridgeback Wines – situated on the R44 between Paarl and Wellington.

I first took a fancy to Ridgeback’s wines when I tasted the Shiraz last winter. Then on my way back from champagne tasting at Krone last month, we thought we would swing by Ridgeback for lunch and some wine tasting (happy days they are open on a Sunday – I realise everyone needs a break, but surely it makes sense for more wine farms to open on a Sunday, and not shut ridiculously early on a Saturday?)

What a treat. The cellar is relaxed, friendly and inviting, with lunch area overlooking an amazing pond – home to two black swans. It was no problem to do our tasting outside, and the very knowledgeable tasting assistant did a great job of attending to the different groups tasting wine at the time.

The 2008 Sauvignon Blanc is coming along very nicely since I first tasted it in August last year, when it was very recently bottled. And the 2006 Ridgeback Viognier is a treat of dried stone fruits nicely off set by 15 months in oak.

But in such a warm area, it’s the reds that are going to shine. Having said that, despite the heat, the team at Ridgeback do a great job at keeping alcohol levels down, unlike some of the ridiculously high percentages that seem to be the norm nowadays.

Vernon Cole, Ridgeback’s MD, is excited about the 2005 Merlot, which he has very high hopes for this year. My favourite was the 2004 Merlot/Cabernet Franc blend – approachable, smooth with the Cabernet Franc balancing the fruity Merlot nicely.

The 2005 Shiraz is of course delicious, and the flagship wine, 2005 His Master’s Choice was a winner on Christmas Eve. Served with roast leg of lamb, the blend of Shiraz, Mourvedre and Viogner was delish.

After a leisurely wine tasting you can stay on for lunch – choosing from wraps, bruschettas or dishes of the day including pickled fish or lamb chops. The last Friday of the month is tapas day with a special on wine by the glass to accompany the food. And the first Wednesday of the month is pensioners day – get free tasting AND 15% off the wine you buy.

Tip on getting there – the entrance is not on the R44 where the big Ridgeback gates are, take the following turn off right, signposted Rhebokskloof, and you will find the entrance there. If you want to make a weekend of it, there is B n B accommodation on the farm as well.

After completing the garagiste winemaking course at the University of Stellenbosch earlier this year, Michelle Coetzee took the plunge and made her first batch of wine. By all accounts it was a great success – and hopefully the first of many vintages. Michelle tells us more about her winemaking activities.

1.             What exactly is a garagiste wine maker?

My definition of a garagiste wine maker would be someone that makes wine on a small scale for their own consumption.

2.             How did you end up as one?

I can’t remember exactly when I started loving wine as much as I do, but when I realized that I was more excited about trying new wines, and going on wine routes, than almost any other outings, I realized I had a passion for wine, and that’s where the idea of making my own wine came from.

3.             What do you think garagistes bring to wine making that the traditional wine makers don’t?

A personal element, knowing that the wine was made by somebody that loves wine (why else would you go through the hassle and mess?) gives it the impression it will be special.  Certainly traditional wine makers more than likely love wine too, but it is made on a bigger scale, where the ‘consumer’ isn’t always known.

4.             What is the most exciting thing about being a garagiste wine maker?

This year was my first attempt, so every step of the way, from the yeast fermentation to the bottling and labeling was exciting;  probably the most exciting was when my friends tasted the wine, and enjoyed it!

5.             What is the most challenging thing about being a garagiste wine maker?

Consistency; I was lucky this year to have really good grapes (must have been because the wine tasted good :) ) I have to hope to get as good grapes next year, even if it is from the same source.

6.             Please describe your wine for us?

Tumble Turn is 100% shiraz; it was a good red colour, considering it was not aged for very long;  3 months on oak chips.  It had berry flavours and a hint of pepper.  It was fairly soft, although you could pick up the tannins. It must be said that I only made 7 litres, 8 bottles.

7.             What can we do to promote garagistes in South Africa?

I’m not sure, I don’t see myself making quantities more than my family and friends can drink! I do try support garagiste wine makers by buying their wines when they’re available.

8.             What is the biggest challenge facing the South African wine industry at the moment?

Again, this is a novice opinion, but for new wine farms, it must be really difficult to break into a market that seems saturated;  we have such a large variety of wines and regions to choose from, and it keeps growing.

9.           How do you think South African wine ranks internationally?

I only really got to taste international wines while living overseas, and not knowing enough about them, I didn’t get to taste their best.  What I have had is some amazing Australian reds.  I rate South African wines highly.  You seldom get a bad SA wine, and yet I tasted some fairly horrible wines while living in London, but again, that would have been due to my limited budget!

10.          Talk to us about environmental issues in wine.

Having not grown my own grapes or made wine on a large scale, I don’t have any real input on environmental issues.

11.          What is your favourite wine that you have made?

Just the one! Tumble Turn Shiraz

12.          What are you drinking at the moment?

Being summer, I’m enjoying Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel.  I love red wines, and Hartenberg has never disappointed me!

13.          Where can we get bottles of your wine?

I have 1 bottle left, which is not for sale! I’m waiting to drink it next winter, to see whether its taste has improved after some time in the bottle.

14.          If you weren’t making wine, what would you be doing?

I work for an online media company as a Database Administrator;  many people don’t understand what I do, so mostly I say I work in IT, and there are seldom questions after that..

15.          Anything else you would like to add?

I’m looking forward to making my first barrel of Shiraz next year!

Just as we are looking forward to hearing about it, Michelle!

Last Saturday we headed 120 km north of Cape Town to the little town of Tulbagh – famous for the 1969 earthquake – to enjoy the first ever House of Krone Summer Elegance event. The Tulbagh valley has quietly but persistently been producing some remarkable wines, and is making a name for itself as a region in South Africa, so I was looking forward to seeing what they had to offer.

On the way we swung by Saronsberg, a stunning, newly built cellar that also houses an art exhibition. The wines were delicious and I managed to leave with a bottle of the Saronsberg Sauvignon Blanc 2007 and their bordeaux blend Provenance Rooi 2006 – smooth and fruity. Saronsberg’s wines are big, bold and fruity, as you’d expect from a valley where the temperature heads into the forties in the summer. Specifically the Seismic 2005 is going to kick ass in a year or two

Having whet our appetites we headed on up the valley to the House of Krone at Twee Jonge Gezellen – famous for years for their Night Harvest label, the grapes are literally harvested at night to avoid the punishing heat.

Speaking of heat, thank goodness for the shower of fine mist from the sprays on the balcony where we spent the afternoon sipping Cap Classique, eating sushi from Wasabi, strawberries and nougat. None of us tried the oysters, but I was assured they were delicious.

The R 60 entry fee got you a book of tickets that you could exchange for taster size portions of Krone Borealis Cuvee Brut 2004 and Krone Rose Cuvee Brut 2001. We quickly abandoned that idea as the relaxed setting was not conducive to leaping up and down for refills. So we, and I think most other people there, opted to buy the bubbly by the bottleful instead.

On our way out we swapped the rest of our tickets for a final glass each of Cap Classique which we enjoyed as we strolled around the grounds having a look at the fashion show and vintage cars.

The Rose – delicately salmon coloured wine, fruity, with a smooth creamy mousse – was everyone’s favourite, judging by the number of bottles our group consumed anyway!

On the way back to Tulbagh was dropped in at the Boulders Bush Pub on the Vondoux guest farm. Nice spot for sundowners, but a disaster when we returned later that evening for dinner. They clearly hadn’t factored in the number of visitors that day and the bar, waiting and kitchen staff were struggling to cope.

A quick dessert at Paddagang – we returned the next day to try out the hilariously frog themed wines – and we turned in for the night at the Tulbagh Hotel. The hotel is brilliantly located in the centre of town on Van der Stel street – I wish we had had more time to explore the streets and quirky looking galleries and shops. Recently refurbished, the rooms are lovely and comfortable, with a cut above your usual guest house standard fittings and so on. The pub downstairs is relaxed and service generally was friendly and helpful. They are in the process of building a pool which would be a fabulous addition (did I mention it gets HOT in Tulbagh) and I would check if air con has been installed before booking there in summer.

All in all a great mini-break just before the madness of the festive season really kicks in. I hope the team at Krone make this an annual affair.

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