Posts Tagged ‘Kenya’

Best buddies

Thursday, November 12th, 2009

If it’s Akela who’s best remembered during our travels, it’s Kenya the Staffie who makes the most friends.  He is getting old, white-faced and stiff, and turns 12 in February 2010.  Here Kenya’s even being necked by Bees the cat.

Kenya being necked by Bees

Kenya being necked by Bees

Superlatives in a superlative setting

Monday, May 4th, 2009

I went to sleep to a chorus of frogs worthy of an orchestra.  The lake at Bramasole Guest House in Magoebaskloof lay across the lawn from my bedroom, while the other side looked into an ancient indigenous forest.  The trees are like none I have ever seen with names like Forest Cabbage Tree (Cussonia sphaerocephala) and Jackal-coffee (Tricalysia lanceolata).

Bramasole lies alongside a dam and nestled against an ancient indigineous forest. Kenya prefers watching the camera.

Bramasole lies alongside a dam and nestled against an ancient indigineous forest. Kenya prefers looking at the camera.

I had anticipated something special after visiting their website and discovering that the owner is an architect – Robin McIntosh of Intersect Architects.  I worked with architects and planners for 25 years on projects like Mitchells Plain, St George’s Mall and the V&A Waterfront, and started Architecture SA in 1978 (becoming the journal of the Institute of SA Architects the following year).  Architects and planners can be the most enjoyable people to work and socialise with.

I wasn’t disappointed!  He bought a truly spectacular property before prices started rising which just had a massive shed — a really massive shed.  It had been used variously for breeding rabbits, as stables, growing magic mushrooms, and storing trucks.

The old shed and its new lease of life as Bramasole

The old shed and its new lease of life as Bramasole

The interiors by Melanie McIntosh and sister Kathy Moulder are stunning.

The decor by Melanie McIntosh and sister Kathy Moulder are stunning.

Robin says that using the old shed meant it could never be a pretty building, but that’s only half true… from the moment you arrive you are aware of QUALITY and attention to detail.  But it is a surprising building to find in rural Magoebaskloof.

But stepping inside is breathtaking.  The spaces, materials used and quality of the furnishings are superb.  This is four star, but it’s four star that’s also exceptionally well designed.

A few things set Bramasole apart.  It is self-catering and it has the best self-catering facilities I’ve come across in a comparable establishment.  It also offers bed and breakfast.

Then, Bramasole’s setting showcases the splendour of indigenous Africa.  The bedrooms look straight into a dense forest that almost seems a set for samango_monkeyLord of the Rings.  We saw a really cute, young Samango monkey (rare, CITES Appendix II) but a rooibok had been on one of the paths we took not long before we were there. Birdlife is prolific and a birder’s dream.  But it was the variety of trees that fascinated me most.

Walking in the forest is escaping into another world

Walking in the forest is escaping into another world

The suites and bedrooms are luxurious and stylish. If you appreciate good taste, this is the place for you. Each of the five rooms has a different theme, so pick your fantasy.  And best of all, Bramasole offers real value for money - from about R450 a person.

The suites and bedrooms are luxurious and stylish. If you appreciate good taste, this is the place for you. Each of the five rooms has a different theme, so pick your fantasy. And best of all, Bramasole offers real value for money - from about R450 a person.

Magoebaskloof itself is a very special place.  Where did it get it’s name?  Read Myths & Memories to find out (and if any locals have other stories to add there, they are appreciated.)  Haenerstburg, a charming village, is just a few minutes away. The area offers an abundance of activities and interesting people.

The scenery is spectacular - the view across Bramasole's neighbours.

The scenery is spectacular - the view across Bramasole's neighbours.

Table Mountain to Simon's Town

Thursday, February 5th, 2009

Before leaving Cape Town, it was only right to take leave of some of the most memorable places.

Table Mountain, Twelve Apostles & Lion's Head

Just one of the things that set Cape Town apart from any other city in the world is Table Mountain National Park – part of a world heritage site – in the heart of the city.  We drove up Signal Hill to take a last look across the city to the imposing mass of the The Mountain.  The V&A Waterfront, which took up 20 years of my life – first lobbying to get it started and then the first ten years of its development – lies below where the city meets the sea.

Across the bay, Robben Island took on a new meaning after democracy – “While we will not forget the brutality of apartheid we will not want Robben Island to be a monument of our hardship and suffering. We would want it to be a triumph of the human spirit against the forces of evil, a triumph of wisdom and largeness of spirit against small minds and pettiness; a triumph of courage and determination over human frailty and weakness.” – Ahmed Kathrada

Signal Hill also has other memories for me, because this was where Akela headed after opening the parked bakkie’s window and jumping out one Saturday morning in the city centre in 2007.  Her passage up Long Street and then up through BoKaap was tracked by the security personnel from the City Improvement District (CID) and relayed to me on my cellphone.  I met them where she disappeared into the bushes.  She was only too happy to jump back into the bakkie, none the worse for wear after all the excitement.

My relief was indescribable but, even more important, was my gratitude and appreciation for the CID’s security guys.  I was accustomed to great security at the V&A Waterfront so I was a proud Capetonian experiencing similar levels in the city centre.  Cape Town is a safe and well managed city!

One of the security officers involved in the chase phoned me on Monday morning to ask how Akela was.  Now that really impressed!  Being an efficient city is one thing, but being a caring city is the cherry on top of the cake.

Then it was off to Simon’s Town, with two stops en route.

First was Llandudno, where Akela and Kenya grew up.  As we emerged through the Milkwood trees onto the beach, they suddenly realised where they were and charged into the sea.  They used to spend hours swimming here but Akela also roamed the suburb.

She had a fascination for dustbin lids, which she stole and carried home.  One of her favourite destinations was the primary school – she really adores children.

Next was a quick stop at Absa in Fish Hoek.  Something I have noticed at Absa is that its usually the women who stand out – Lynette and Alta in Hermanus, the ladies who staffed the first bank at the Waterfront, one star at Sea Point branch, and Carmen Okkers at Fish Hoek.  Being bound to a manager by one’s domicilium makes no sense when one gets bad service.  Carmen is a real star and one hopes Absa appreciates her.  Of course, the ascendency of women in Absa is proved by the appointment of Maria Ramos as Absa’s new CEO!

just_nuisance

Akela and Kenya had never been to Simon’s Town before… and the statue of Just Nuisance on Jubilee Square.

But I have an indelible memory of visiting the statue many years ago with Shilo, a border collie/Alsation cross I had many years ago. He was also a constant companion and the only dog allowed into Cape Town docks for four years, while it was still a quarantine area. He rode tugs, canoes and hobie cats, and really did go almost everywhere.

His visit to Just Nuisance was memorable because it really puzzled him. He paced around the statue, approached from the rear and mounted the plinth to smell Just Nuisance’s rear. Then he climbed up at the front to smell the mouth. A group of bergies (vagrants) sitting on the pavement canned themselves laughing as they watched it all.

Akela wasn’t taken in by the statue at all and was more interested in peering over the wall at the boats below. Kenya had a brief sniff but I think he’s had lessons from Akela – she can sniff at a single leaf for ten minutes. What a story she could tell if she could talk!

Who was Just Nuisance? Just Nuisance was the only dog ever to be officially enlisted in the Royal Navy. He was a Great Dane who served from 1939-44 at HMS Afrikander, a Royal Navy shore establishment in Simon’s Town. He died in 1944 and was buried with full military honours.

He belonged to Benjamin Chaney who ran the United Services Institute in Simon’s Town. Just Nuisance quickly became popular with the patrons of the institute, mostly the ratings who would feed him snacks and take him for walks. He began to follow them back to the naval base and dockyards, where he would lie on the decks of ships, normally at the top of the gangplanks. Since he was a large dog even for a Great Dane (he was almost 2m tall when standing on his hind legs) he presented a sizable obstacle for those trying to board or disembark and he became affectionately known as Nuisance.

Nuisance was allowed to roam freely and, following the sailors, he began to take day trips by train as far afield as Cape Town, 35km away. Despite the seamen’s attempts to conceal him, the conductors would put him off the trains as soon as he was discovered. This did not cause him any problems though, as he would wait for the next train or walk to another station where he would board the next train that came along. Amused travellers would occasionally offer to pay his fares, but the railway company eventually warned Chaney that Nuisance would have to be put down unless he was kept under control to prevent him boarding the trains or had his fares paid.

The news that Nuisance may be put down spurred many of the sailors and locals to write to the Navy pleading for something to be done. Although somebody offered to buy him a season ticket, the Navy instead decided to officially enlist him; as a member of the armed forces he would receive free rail travel, so the fare-dodging would no longer be a problem. It was a good idea: for the next years, he would be a morale booster for the troops serving in World War II.

He was enlisted on 25 August 1939: his surname was entered as “Nuisance” and rather than leaving the forename blank he was christened “Just”. His trade was listed as “Bonecrusher” and his religious affiliation as “Scrounger”, although it was later altered to the more charitable “Canine Divinity League (Anti-Vivisection)”. To allow him to receive rations and because of his longstanding unofficial service he was promoted from Ordinary Seaman to Able Seaman.

He continued to accompany sailors on train journeys and escorted them back to base when the pubs closed.

Nuisance had been involved in a car accident which had caused thrombosis which was gradually paralysing him, so on 1 January 1944 he was discharged from the Navy. His condition continued to deteriorate; on 1 April 1944 he was taken to Simon’s Town Naval Hospital where on the advice of the naval veterinary surgeon, he was put to sleep. The next day he was taken to Klaver Camp where his body was draped with a Royal Naval White Ensign and he was buried with full naval honours, including a gun salute and the playing of the Last Post. A simple granite headstone marks his grave, but a statue was erected in Jubilee Square in Simon’s Town to commemorate his life.

The Simon’s Town Museum has a room dedicated to his story, and since 2000 there has been an annual parade of Great Danes from which a lookalike is selected.